Tag Archives: surfing

Adventures in Fiji

In November 2009, I spent an incredible ten days on the Tui Tai exploring the Northern Fijian atolls. We had so many adventures that I scored a ton of footage and epic photos that I haven’t even finished getting through. … Continue reading

Posted in Adventure Stories | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

River rock scrambling

Photo: Chris McLennan Right at this moment, sitting hurts. I lean against the wall, both legs flat out on the sun bleached wooden walkway, toes just slightly hanging over the edge, but leaning perceptibly to the left. My right butt … Continue reading

Posted in Adventure Stories | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Rejuvenation in Fiji

I am alone. Sailing on a gently swaying ship I sit with a smile on a bed just for me, looking through a sliding glass door that I can close to keep out the world. Granted, the world is nice … Continue reading

Posted in Adventure Stories | Tagged , , , | 6 Comments

Surfing in the Rain

Another excerpt from the novel I’m working on writing. Comments welcome! It couldn’t start without coffee. Soothing dark brown richness. This and every morning’s first thought. Coffee coffee coffee! The silent symphonic thought mantra that leads me out of this … Continue reading

Posted in Words of a Wondering Wanderer | Tagged , , , | 22 Comments

Life after competitive surfing is a bit greener

http://www.youtube.com/v/fT6SIGqdnGY&hl=en&fs=1&color1=0xe1600f&color2=0xfebd01 This is home. No electricity, well-pumped water, plenty of hands-on chores to fill the time, a happy little dog, enough land for fruit trees and a vegetable garden, and my favorite surf spot in the world right out front. … Continue reading

Posted in Surf Life Nicaragua, Videos | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Surf Stronger Fitness and Performance Camp

Remember camp? You went away for a little while, made new friends, hung out in a different part of the world, pretended to listen while the camp counselors made their little speeches, and totally exhausted yourself with all kinds of … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Filming for Beautiful Wave

I’ve tried to be an actress a few times. There was Jr. High drama class, one year of high school drama, a few skits back when I was going to church camp in the summers, but nothing too serious. As … Continue reading

Posted in Adventure Stories | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Another blurry morning

After a solid week of amazing surf, all day offshore winds, and sunny, 75 degree, perfect January-in-California weather, the clouds finally came, bringing rain but not stopping the waves. On the last morning of that flurry of great surf, I … Continue reading

Posted in Words of a Wondering Wanderer | Tagged , , , , | 7 Comments

Tahitian Sting-Rays

I was upside down and underwater at the time, completely ignoring the cameraman trying in vain to get me to move a little slower, when I finally completely shut out the cameras and lost myself in the moment. With each … Continue reading

Posted in Adventure Stories | Tagged , , , , , | 10 Comments

Tahitian Shark Bites

all photos: Justin Lewis From mosquito bites and home cooked meals we motored across the channel to the island of Moorea to indulge in ocean-hovering honeymoon bungalows, umbrella drinks, and the promise of big sharks. I’m a warm water diver. … Continue reading

Posted in Adventure Stories | Tagged , , , , , | 4 Comments