After a solid week of amazing surf, all day offshore winds, and sunny, 75 degree, perfect January-in-California weather, the clouds finally came, bringing rain but not stopping the waves. On the last morning of that flurry of great surf, I was exhausted. I woke up stiff and sore, surf satisfied. Over a cup of Silver Joes coffee, I sat in front of my computer, a morning ritual, and checked the buoy readings, the tide, and my facebook page – waiting for the light of day to send me a signal that it’s time load up the car and drive between surf spot options. In the few moments between seeing that first sign of sun and grabbing my wetsuit, I typed out a collection of words that described my feelings at that moment (see below, along with some photos from that wonderfully exhausting week).

Rain drip drops on another blurry morning
Shoulders stiff neck cries
Arms lying that they’re ready for more movement
Ready…
Plenty of options but no solid plans
No plane ticket waiting no airplane gating
No boardbag jet lag rehab calendar dating
Home and the smell of olive oiled garlic and onions
On a worn out pan near a reliable knife
A lovingly familiar comfortable life
Strong coffee mornings waiting for light
The flag out the window tells me is all right
Offshore again for the second week in a row
Red yellow colors still swirling
Pixilated on my computer show
As I sit waiting, watching, considering where to go
Slurping that coffee, cool now, last sip
4/3 and booties still stinking with drip
from yesterday afternoon’s kelp clogged mind-freeing trip
legs still remembering the hike up the cliff
sunset ingrained and the need for a 6’6”
6’1” buckled on an inside cylinder
5’11” speared by a clueless beginner
but there are others in my VW ready for their chance
to glide beneath my feet in an un-choreographed wave dance
there’s a warm sun rising to pinken the clouds
and a familiar song being sung out loud
more lines coming long and true
it’s time to load up, set off, suit up, paddle out, take off, pull in,
and enjoy the view.

photo: Mike Balzer

this and the next 2 photos: Chris Grant/Jetty Girl


photo sequence by Mike Balzer