Category Archives: Adventure Stories

Filming for Beautiful Wave

I’ve tried to be an actress a few times. There was Jr. High drama class, one year of high school drama, a few skits back when I was going to church camp in the summers, but nothing too serious. As … Continue reading

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Contagious Newness – North Shore 2009

Rocky Point I first sunk into the thick grainy sand of the infamous North Shore of Oahu a little over a month after my seventeenth birthday, back in 1997. I had just gotten sponsored by Rusty and before the dream … Continue reading

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Tahitian Sting-Rays

I was upside down and underwater at the time, completely ignoring the cameraman trying in vain to get me to move a little slower, when I finally completely shut out the cameras and lost myself in the moment. With each … Continue reading

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Tahitian Shark Bites

all photos: Justin Lewis From mosquito bites and home cooked meals we motored across the channel to the island of Moorea to indulge in ocean-hovering honeymoon bungalows, umbrella drinks, and the promise of big sharks. I’m a warm water diver. … Continue reading

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Tahiti 2 – Drop Zone Teahupoo

After two weeks in Tahiti covering the Billabong Pro for Go211.com, I shifted gears when team Body Glove arrived. From watching, reacting, and discussing the action as a spectator, I jumped into the mix myself as an actor and participant … Continue reading

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Tahiti 1 – Billabong Pro Teahupoo

I had been to Tahiti for the first time back in 2000. It was a life-changing and memorable trip designed to capture cover shots for SG magazine that became the background for many firsts. I did secure my first cover … Continue reading

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“Tenemos el dinero, queremos la tierra!”

September 2005 “Hola, Tacho? Somos los gringos. Tenemos el dinero, queremos la tierra!” For those of you who don’t speak Spanish, that translates to “ Hello, Tacho? We are the white folk. We have the money, we want the land!” … Continue reading

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An African Surf Story

Two years ago now, I embarked on a journey to the wild coast of West Africa with two fellow explorers, Joe Curren and the legendary Sam George. We spent three weeks looking for waves, journeying upriver to admire regal elephants, … Continue reading

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Galloping Time

There’s an onomatopoetic whisperOf the breezeRustling leavesAt the tops of treesSo I stand here draped in shadowTo listen quietlyAnd breathe Noticing the forest entities of most beautyAre not the young ones; tall, perfect, symmetricalBut those standing leafless in barren contorted … Continue reading

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More Campervan Cruising

Things got a little weird yesterday. Other than a two-hour long mission back to Forster town to find internet access so I could maybe get my assignment completed on time, I didn’t do much driving. School has always come easy, … Continue reading

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